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Burma 2002
In 2002 I went to visit an orphanage in Thailand. Bay lee was home in the states with my sister. I also visited Vietnam and Cambodia on this trip.
I had not heard about the refugee camp prior to my visit and was told is was impossible to go there. I thought I could play dumb and I do it well (most times not even on purpose) and I asked for directions. The directions I was given told to me to follow the dirt road (there was only one road) until I got to the sign that said "no tourists allowed" and to continue seven or eight miles past that. The camp was located outside of Thailand, at the Burma Border close to three military check points. The orphanage director wished me luck and I was on my way.
The road went through the jungle and I was surrounded by beautiful trees, bamboo and thick vegetation. This was the land where many wild Tigers and elephants roamed not to long ago. Today, there are reports of a few but not many making the countryside as sad as it is beautiful.
It was breath taking and difficult at times due to the incline. The Honda Dream moped is a work of art if you ask me: light and agile . . . and it did wonders.
At the first check point, my heart was pumping. This was where the Thai Military could be found: elite jungle warriors who often have contact with the Burmese Army. They were playing volleyball and motioned for me to stop, They did not speak English and I spoke very little Thai. "Hello", "Thank you", "Good luck" and other niceties which, with my finesse of the language, more than likely came out as "your wife looks like a rhino."
The guards questioned me. I said I was a doctor. I had on my Orphan Art shirt. They love the official documents. My official looking stamps saved the day, even if they were from Sarasota county Court house. I had taken copies of my divorce papers to have them translated to Thai while in Thailand. I had them with me along with my passport. It took thirty minutes to get the approval but I just held my ground. I continued to show respect and never raised my voice. I think they tired of this and let me pass.
After the first checkpoint, the other two were easy. I guess they radioed ahead and said keep on the look out for a crazy American. I lied cheated cajoled and convinced the three military check points guards in the jungle that I was someone important. It worked and in my naively, I found my self in Burma by accident. I drove for hours in the jungle and made a wrong turn. I found a small village and stopped for a drink. The lady and man who served me were very nice but rather surprised with my visit. I asked where the refugee camp was and they got someone who spoke a little English to help me.
He was very nice but very apprehensive. He went on to tell me I was in Burma, a rugged border town that caters to the Burmese guerrillas. He said they could be outside the perimeter or in the village. Being in Burma he suggested I get the hell out of there as soon as I finished my drink. He thanked me for taking the time to visit his people in the refugee camp and explained how the guerrillas sometimes mortar the village and refugee camp.
I mounted my trusty, rented moped and went to look for the refugee camp. I found it shortly. It was surreal, like something out of a movie. The smoke from the cooking fires hung over the camp of three thousand. It was very Erie, rustic and primitive.
I pulled up and meet a man who was so nice and so happy to see me. I asked him to take me to the schoolmaster and many children and adults gathered around and we left for the school. I did not know that the top students were taught English. The schoolmaster explained that they had hope that someday their country would return to democracy, although they have been there for three years, no electricity no radios no televisions or news papers allowed. This man was so nice and so excited to see me. He was amazed I got in.
The local missionary doctor told me later that he had worked with the local people near the camp for twenty years but he had never been there. Wow! It was my lucky day.
I asked to see the camp leader and while in route I saw the rugged hospital, small guardians and bathing areas. I rounded a corner and saw a beautiful woman in bright colored cloths working in the garden smiling. Her beauty, the trip through the jungle, the suffering and horror these people have been through and continue to go through hit me all at once.
The schoolmaster chuckled quietly and I held back my tears. It was a very moving moment for me, one I hope to never forget. He told me the woman was his sister. I told him I wanted to be his brother in law, he laughed and she smiled. I told her in her language how beautiful she was and we went to meet the camp leader.
The camp leader was with a few people but invited us in anyway. The schoolmaster introduced me to a Thai national representative and a few United Nations representatives. The were taken aback, "How did you get here?" "Who are you?", "What are you doing here?" I explained who I was and what I was doing and we exchanged cards.
I asked them why the Thailand government would not let more refugees in the camp. He explained that if they did they would be over run with refugees and could not feed or protect them. I replied that it was very sad because many men, woman and children were being murdered, tortured and raped only a stone's throw away from where we were. He lowered his head and agreed. The camp master's eyes widened. The UN representatives fired back. It was apparent it was time for me to go.
The schoolmaster led me to see the hospital and meet the English speaking Cambodian doctor. When out of site of the Leaders Hut, he shook my hand lowered his head thanked me for caring about his people. Smiling he said, "I have something to show you. Come with me."
We went to his friends house and they made sure we were not being watched. They showed me the picture he had painted, the story of he and his villagers being forced to act as porters for the Burmese Army, their village being burned, the people being tortured to give away the position of the Korean Liberation Army and the woman being raped by the solders.
They explained they were not allowed to paint these pictures and if they were found they risked being expelled back to Burma. This was a certain death sentence for them. They gave me the picture and me to tell the world about the plight of their people. I was dumbfounded and said I would do my best.
The camp doctor was employed by an American refugee relief organization. She was very nice and spoke perfect English. The conditions were rugged but compared to the lack of any medicine or medical treatment the villages had it was like the Mayo clinic.
She also was surprised to see me there. It was to dangerous to stay there overnight. She had to leave regardless of any emergency that might happen during the night. We planed to meet for dinner after she returned to her home.
I explored the camp and took many pictures. I had been told if the Thailand military found the camera they would take the camera, accuse me of being a journalist and possibly deport me from the country.
That night during dinner she affirmed the stories of the refugees I meet. She asked again and again how in the world I got into the camp. She was a very nice woman but she had been hardened and I could sense her feeling of helplessness with the people.
I went back to the camp two more times, and took art supplies to the schoolmaster. I smuggled a short-wave radio to him. He was very happy and continued to ask me to tell the world about his people. Maybe I have failed him, although I did sent the pictures and brief story to the free Burma society. I received a quick note of thanks.
I returned six weeks later and was almost not allowed in I pleaded and begged I got threw. The guard made it clear that it was the last time. He held up his hand as if holding a rifle. I understood him. He said I would have to come with an escort next time .
After my return, the Burmese military had stepped up their raids and had mined the perimeter of the village. It continues to this day. It is sad that this is happening all over the world. Our countries are so advanced and developed yet we bring ourselves to an animal's level for power, greed and money.
This is not all ego. It is meant to get attention to people who are in need. I feel I have let the school master down. I wish to do better.
The great writers have the ability to take you with them on there journey. I do not. I do wish this could get some attention even if in a very small way.
Many orphans are in the camp and many are living in the depths of the jungle. I wish to return. I wish to get the camp again and see my friends. I wish to let them know I have not forget about them.
This is just one or many adventures in that trip Asia. Many more occurred before the resulted marriage, birth of my daughter and divorce which soon followed. That will be for another time.
- Brice
June 9, 2002 Hello everyone I apologize for the form letter but the internet here is similar to Lost Vegas sometimes you get lucky, but not that often. We live in Sinanookville Cambodia, on the coast of the Gulf of Thailand, go out of the harbor and turn left , Vietnam, turn right Thailand, go straight and you bump into Borneo.Our house is a small two story Khmer house, all wood with a large garden in the back. We have just planted corn, tomatoes, beans, cucumbers, and some things I have no clue as to what they are, but the locals like them. An oh yes watermelon. My staff or the posse as I refer to them consists of the following. Poul: age 34 or so, polio from birth , restricted to walking while sitting down, difficult to explain. He has restricted hand and arm movements. He is my security guard. I know my thinking sounds crazy, but there is a method to my madness here Poul can speak fairly good English and he translate for the staff he also reports bay Lees behaviour while I’m gone and this my friends is pricless (You Parents will understand this) Phun: age 32 cousin to Poul above, second in command in the security department. Phun works in the garden and busts his ass, I feed him but he is not on the Pay roll. Phun is built like Mike Tyson but drop 75 pounds.Jen To, age 16, Bay Lees Nanny, she is learning English and has patience with Bay Lee, they have there moments but she is good with her and learning to cook Yankee food for Bay Lee. Although Bay Lee has taken a interest in the local food, rice vegetables, and potatoes , pork ,chicken and the like.Stra Mom age 13, side kick to Jen To, she helps with the cooking washing and the constant chore of watching Bay Lee Stra Mom’s background is similar to many of the children here, Mom died, dad is a alcoholic in the capitol and never sees her. she has never went to school and mainly worked doing laundry cleaning for people, in the past her monthly pay was 6 dollars. Stra Mom is worried about what the other kids would think of her not being able to read or write, so I have offered to send her to school but she will not go. She also get depressed at times about not having a family. So many kids here live on the street and are abused, but rather then going into detail, just think of the worst possible childhood ,and you would see what I see on a daily basis, and yes it happens in the states and around the world as well. Stra Vey, age 32, not sure of her job title but she and Bay Lee hit it off well, she also can not read or write and has a three y/o son who lives with her mom in there village. Stra Vey came to Sinaookville to work in the restaurant insdury, and caters to tourists, she can cook good but does not like her work. If you caught a glimpse of the pigs, who travel here from around the world you would understand. She is not on the Pay roll but we might put her on in in the future if my income increases, or should I say if I get A income. More on that later. Po First mate on the boat, his father was instrumental in getting the boat put in my name. His father is in the Cambodian Army and has been for ever, this carries a lot of clout & weight in these parts. For example a few drunken police came to harass Po at the boat one night they were very drunk and said we will beat you up, ect.. From what I understand the next day a few military higher up’s including Po”s father went and talked to the involved police, and basically said if you mess with the Yankess boat or my kid I will Kill you. The police apologized profusely and said they would watch the boat and protect it bla bla. That’s how things work here it is sooo much who you know ,as this is the wild wild west in many ways. Any way he is a bit chubby and a bit lazy but likes to live on the boat, and loves fishing, although when the waves get above 1 foot he tends to turn green and dive below to the comfort of diesel fumes and exhaust. We are working on this. Together we have turned a unsightly leaky boat, into a truly luxurious seaworthy craft. With amenities that rival that of the finer ships of the world i.e.: African Queen, The Bounty and Carnival Cruse lines best.There is a good business here taking the tourists to the surrounding islands, snorkeling, fishing beach combing . Think of Siesta Key Florida and add beautiful dense rain forests mountain islands, shells that are from Mars they are so weird and beautiful. The waters are charted poorly and they local fishermen do not use sonar. It is well documented that the waters are teaming with coral and unexplored virgin diving, and lots of wrecks from the early trading with China. I spoke with a German man who asked about chartering my boat on a weekly basis, his company looks for wrecks and recover the Asian porcelain, some of which brings a hefty price . His company has had a lot of luck in Thailand, anyway you never know. And I have sonar……My thoughts are to commercial fish in the off season and take the fish to selected restaurants in Phnom Penh. Or if thing’s go well, at out restaurant & guest house here.I would like to staff the place with street kids, orphans, x prostitutes and the handicapped. Big dream I know but things do happen if they are supposed to, and you work hard for them.I know I’m rambling on here but it is that kind of of day. I do want to keep in touch with the people I love back home. I owe you all much in your support and would love for you to visit.I can offer a free place to stay free food ,and free boat rides. And a very different kind of of vacation. Well it is time to plant so more stuff , check the boat, and maybe buy some new flip flops. My beloved Sperry’s have finally imploded after years of good service. Please write if you can and again thanks, keep us in your prayers as you are in ours.We plan to return to the States in the near future, to visit and get new flops, as of yet not sure of the dates but I look forward to seeing everyone.Sincerely,,Brice & Bay Lee
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